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Junction Fromagerie

Vacherin Mont D'or. “the holy grail of raw milk cheeses”

Vacherin Mont D'or. “the holy grail of raw milk cheeses”

Regular price $49.95 CAD
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Below is a description of Vacherin Mont D'or from David Lebovitz

“Goopy” isn’t a word used too often when writing about food. Am not sure why, but perhaps because there aren’t a lot of things that are goopy, that you actually want to eat. Mont d’Or has been called the holy grail of French raw milk cheeses. It’s goopy for sure, and if that bothers you, well, that’s something you’re going to have to work on for yourself. In the meanwhile, I’ve been lapping up this Mont d’Or I recently acquired, enjoying every single goopy mouthful.

Called “the holy grail of raw milk cheeses”, Mont d’Or (also called Vacherin Mont d’Or, and Vacherin Haut-Doubs) is truly a spectacular cheese. And even though they’re widely available in the winter in France, because of their richness, it’s something I reserve for special occasions. For me, that special occasion was lunch yesterday.

According to French Cheeses, the origin of this cheese was a point of contention between the Swiss and the French for centuries, with the Swiss finally conceding to the French. I’ve read further and the kerfuffle between the two countries resulted in some confusion in names: In Switzerland, it’s called Vacherin Mont d’Or, whereas in France, Vacherin refers to the same cheese molded and ripened in large wooden hoops, and the smaller ones, packed and sold individually, are called Mont d’Or.

On a trip to Switzerland, I visited a cheese-maker who specialized in this cheese and noticed their cheeses were a bit lacking in that barnyardy flavor (another food-writing word to avoid?) and I learned the Swiss versions are made from pasteurized milk. In France, you can get both versions; those made with lait cru (raw milk) and the pasteurized ones. (Tip: Go for the lait cru.) The cheese is ripened for about three weeks in the spruce boxes, which give the cheese a particular flavor.

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